The Baños de Coamo are further west along the expressway (take Route 153 exit). The thermal springs were first used by the Taínos, and legend says they are the fountain of youth that Ponce de León was searching for. A fashionable resort thrived here during the turn of the century, and today an attractive parador surrounds the springs.

Highway 52 ends at Ponce, the Island's second largest city. Ponce's historic downtown area was recently renovated. The unique architecture, dating from the 19th century, draws from Neo-classical, Art Deco and Caribbean influences.

Plaza Las Delicias is the town's main square, which houses the Parque de Bombas, the city's famous red and black firehouse built in 1883, and the Cathedral of Our Lady of Guadalupe, named after the city's patron saint. The area is a fine place to walk around because of the numerous historic buildings. Rides in horse-drawn carriages are also offered. A tourist information office is located at Casa Armstrong-Poventud.

The Ponce Museum of Art (at Las Américas Avenue/848-0511 or 848-0505) is the largest in the Caribbean, with works ranging from ancient classical to contemporary Puerto Rican. There are good examples of Baroque and pre-Raphaelite painting. The building itself is a beauty, designed by Edward Durell Stone, the architect of the Museum of Modern Art in New York. The collection was donated by Luis Ferré, an Island industrialist and former governor.

Castillo Serrallés overlooks the city from El Vigía Hill. The mansion was once home to Serrallés family, makers of Don Q rum, and is now a museum. Caja de Muertos is an offshore island and nature reserve that can be reached via ferry from La Guancha, the boardwalk area around the Ponce Hilton. The Island is a good place to swim, snorkel or hike.

Outside the city on Route 503 is the Tibes Indian Ceremonial Center, thought to be the oldest burial ground in the Caribbean. There are seven bateyes or ball courts where a soccer-like game was played by the Taínos. Some ruins are also believed to have astrological significance. The Hacienda Buena Vista (on Route 10, north of Ponce) is a restored corn and coffee plantation that dates from 1833. The experience is authentic; even the waterwheels and mills function. Bilingual tours are given, but reservations are necessary (call 722-5882).

The Island's southwest, a beautiful region of dry plains and beaches, is reached via Route 2 west of Ponce. The coastal town of Guánica (take exit for Route 116) has been attracting visitors for centuries. The area housed a thriving Taíno community. Later, Ponce de León first explored the island here, and it is the site of the American invasion in 1898.

The town's harbor is picturesque, as is Enseñada, the area surrounding the abandoned grounds of the Central Sugar Mill. Fine beaches include Ballena and Playa Santa. At Caña Gorda, there is a public beach with showers, bathrooms and a cafeteria. Offshore cays, covered with mangroves, are easily reached. Guánica's dry forest is unique and has been declared an international biosphere by the United Nations. It's the world's largest area of tropical dry forest, which has the stunted and twisted look of Japanese Bonsai plants. The area is also a thriving bird sanctuary. Walking trails climb through the forest and out to nearby beaches.

Further west along Route 116 is La Paguera, a small community with several guest houses and restaurants. The town makes a fine base from which to visit the several beaches in the area. Boat tours and rentals are available. There are nice reefs and offshore islands to explore and a phosphorescent bay that glows at night. The town gets lively on weekends. Live merengue or salsa bands play behind a bar and recreation room adjacent to the town square. The many small bars offer local sangría and music.

San Germán (off Route 2) lies inland. The quiet, traditional town, marked by its 17th century Spanish architecture, was the second founded on the Island. The Gothic-style Porta Coeli Church, built in 1606, is the oldest under U.S. jurisdiction. The town also makes a good base to explore the surrounding coastal and mountain regions.

Further west is Cabo Rojo, which sprawls across the island's southwest corner and encompasses several communities that are favorite vacation spots of islanders. The town's lighthouse, built by the Spanish colonial government, looms over the Island's southernmost point from a steep cliff overlooking the sea. Boquerón Lagoon and Cabo Rojo Wildlife Refuge are two nature reserves in the area.

Boquerón is a small beach town with a weathered charm. Inexpensive restaurants and guest houses crowd the town's center. A large, white sand beach arcs along the mouth of a bay, where showers, bathrooms, a cafeteria and inexpensive cabins are available. The town is a favorite stopping point for those sailing through the Caribbean, and travelers from around the water gather in the plaza's open air restaurants.

Uncrowded beaches are at nearby El Combate and Buye, where camping is available. Joyuda is another popular spot, famous for the abundant seafood restaurants on its waterfront.